Making small hypertufa pots 2

It’s Tufa Time!…At Last Revealed.

I’ve made some hypertufa planters early while it was still cold.

I thought that I could show you all some videos of the process as it plays out when I am working inside during the cold weather. It is not convenient, especially for clean-up time, but when you just HAVE to make some, this works for me.

At this point, I was filming by myself so the quality is not the best. But it does show the basics of how to make these. It was actually filmed about 2 years ago. And has been on my YouTube Channel called Kim’s Gardens. I am ready to take the newly made hypertufa pots out of the molds. I have filmed the texture process so that you can see how it is done.

Making Small Hypertufa Pots - Forming the Mixture Into Mold - Part 1 of 3

Did you want to see how the hypertufa planters look as they come out of the molds? This will show you what to expect and how to make a texture that you like.

(My husband was available to film this time, so my film is a little more steady.)

These new garden planters are still somewhat soft on the outside as I like them to be when I want to texturize. So I have pulled them out and made the video so that you can see how it is done.

Making Small Hypertufa Pots- Wrapped for Curing - Part 2 of 3

These were made on Saturday and taken from the molds on Wednesday, so these had a First Cure time of 3 days.


During this time of year while it is still chilly outside, I allow them to cure downstairs in the basement. Our basement is heated, so the new hypertufa planters stay at a constant 68-70°F during that time.

Making Small Hypertufa Pots - Unmold and Texturize - Part 3 of 3

If you wonder at the longer First Cure time, I cure it longer when it is inside and cooler. I always feel it takes a little longer when the curing planters is NOT outside in the yard wrapped but in outside air. My summertime cure location is next to a large lilac bush, semi-shaded, next to our fence. When I am curing outside, the time period is about 24-48 hours.

You can see that these new hypertufa planters are easy to “score” at this stage. I didn’t have any trouble putting on the texture. I use wire brushes, rasps, even a screwdriver to gouge any markings I want to imprint on the surface.  I have even used a dremel to draw on the surface.

Those of you who have artistic skills could really make some nice surface markings or drawings.

Have you made any tufa planters already this year? Those of you in temperate climates who get to make them most of the year are so lucky!



  1. Thanks for showing how they look as they come out of the molds. So I guess you wait till they are much further cured before you drill drainage holes? I wondered how much texture you would get from the basket with the plastic between, but it turned out quite nice!

    1. Alison, I usually wait until the next cure period, like two-three weeks, and then drill the holes. I don’t want to press too hard on it until it is stronger. It is really strong now ( you can hear the pings as I hit it), but rather than to cave in the bottom, I try to wait til later. It always seems more stable then for drilling. Good question. It is hard to think about what info I need to provide.

    1. Carol, thanks for reading. Good luck with the Sugar Maple Festival! I know you will do a good job!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.