Oh the Possibilities Draped Hypertufa

Oh, the Possibilities ! Draped Hypertufa Pots

How about a whole new look for a homemade planter?

Try some draped hypertufa pots. These are cement pots or cement fabric pots made from the same mixture as we make hypertufa, but we make it with  extra Portland cement.

Since it is being made from a piece of leftover fabric, and will not have 1-2 inch sides as its structure, it needs a strong mix of the Portland cement to be sure it is sturdy.

It is heavier on the Portland cement, and incredibly messy to make, but I am already planning to make more. I have seen some photos  on the internet, but nothing with complete directions on how to do it, so I have winged it!


draped hypertufa or cement pots from http://www.thehypertufagardener.com/oh-the-possibilities-draped-hypertufa/

You can use any draping fabric you have lying around. It can be an old towel, a blanket, leftover drapery material, an old light quilt or bedspread. 

Best fabric: It seems to be a piece of OLD TOWEL OR A FLEECE BLANKET.

A textured fabric is better, hence the fleece blankets, old towels, etc. It seems to me that the more absorbent the fabric is, the better results you will have.

The fabric needs to absorb the cement to be successfully strong and dampening the fabric prior to placing it in the slurry seems to be the best procedure.

You can drill holes in the draped hypertufa pots very easily with a drill after it is cured. Use a masonry bit.

Recipe on this one is heavy on the cement. I would use:

  • 1 part Portland cement (I was using a 2 qt pitcher)
  • 1/4 part of peat ( about 1 pint)
  • a handful of vermiculite and mortar mix depending on how much you want it to be textured
  • water, about a 2 qt pitcher as above added slowly as you get it into a slurry or gravy

If you have any problems locating the vermiculite or perlite, here is a source.

My posts sometimes contain affiliate links which means that if you make a purchase via the link from my site, I could earn a small commission. This doesn’t affect the price you pay, but helps me to support my website. Thank you so much.

Cut the draping fabric into a circle or  oval, or even use it as a rectangle or square for pointy tips. To see how it might appear when finished, dampen your fabric piece and hang it from your “tower.” 

Your “tower” is the structure that you will use as a form to hang and dry the cement-soaked fabric. It will be HEAVY, so the tower needs to be strong. Cover it with a plastic piece so your fabric won’t stick to it.


My largest draped hypertufa pots were made over a bar stool. It stays on this support while it dries and will take on that shape and its draping will depend on how it “hangs” from the support tower.   Your support tower must be sturdy and allow the fabric to “drape” because it is this draping that makes the final outcome of the piece.

Be sure to cover your tower in plastic!  The piece is slightly pliable when you attempt to remove it from the tower after it has cured/hardened, but it was a struggle with that bar stool.

Want to check out the videos: Here is a link.

Playlist: Draped Hypertufa or Cement Fabric Pots - Instructions


Again, before you actually soak your fabric in the cement slurry, check out how it hangs or “drapes” by wetting the fabric and placing it on the tower you have chosen to use. Pull it to one side or the other until you have  a vision of what you’d like to see in the draped shape of your cement pot or finished piece.


The draped hypertufa pots featured here were made from an oval cut about 26″ by 39″. ( I had earlier made it bigger, but decided I just couldn’t handle fabric cut that big when it was dipped in the slurry. It was a good decision, because that sucker is HEAVY after soaking it in cement gravy.)

Once your slurry is all mixed, and you have a consistency like meat gravy,  if you have any doubt that your mix won’t be strong enough, put in a little extra Portland cement.

When you are ready, soak the dampened draping fabric in your slurry mix and roll it around until it is completely soaked with cement slurry. Wear gloves of course. I had to dip the mix up and smoosh it into the fabric on both sides, being sure to get it into folds. Did I lie when I said it was MESSY?

Be sure to mix up enough slurry to get it all wet. Depending on the size of your fabric piece, you may need to double the recipe. If you have leftovers, have a few small  cloths ready to drape over a butter dish or bowl, or just pour it into those dishes to make  feet for a trough. When you are draping it over your tower, it is easy to pull and adjust until you get the look that pleases you.

Curing the Draped Hypertufa Pot

I left my creation for 2 nights in a cold garage, with a large garbage bag pulled over it. After two days, I  pulled the piece off the bar stool tower support with difficulty. It is slightly pliable at this point, but did harden after the next step.  I put it back on the bar stool and again put the garbage bag over it and left it for another 24 hours in the garage.

This draped hypertufa pot pictured on this page (with black background) is roughly the size of a laundry basket and it was draped over a stool. The draped hypertufa pot pictured with the blue background is draped over a paint can. ( I stacked three paint cans.)

“Need Extra Strength? Or Not Hard Enough?”

When your cement pot is piece completed, test it by feeling if it is very hard. If does not seem hard enough to you, mix up another small amount of the slurry, maybe with an additional handful of Portland cement, and again coat the outside of the piece while it remains supported by your tower. I used a large paint brush, but if you use a thin slurry, it can be poured and allowed to drip and run. Re-dry or cure and test it again for hardness.

draped hypertufa or cement fabric pots from http://www.thehypertufagardener.com/oh-the-possibilities-draped-hypertufa/

Try this draped hypertufa pot or cement planter and let me know how yours turns out. I am really pleased with mine. I want to make a smaller-bottomed one, and taller. I envision  a tall vase-shaped one in the corner  where the deck meets the patio. Maybe with a large Persian shield ( Strobilanthes) and wave petunias or calibrachoa? Or maybe I need two?

What would you plant in it? Please let me know. Give me some ideas!

And Share this post with your friends! Thanks!




  1. Quick question. I haven’t tried this mix yet. I have tried several others and failed miserably. I would like to have a smooth finish on some of them. and can this be used to make other shapes besides draped over buckets and such. I pore the concrete molds and this is a new venture for me. Thank you so much for the posts and support.

    1. For a smooth finish, I would just use Portland cement and water, no aggregate as that is what creates the texture ( peat and perlite). If you mix a strong solution, it should be fairly strong. Not hypertufa but should be something really pretty. Strong as in 3 parts or more of cement and 1 part of water. Whatever solution is still “pourable” or soakable as you need it. Hope that answers your question.

  2. Jenelle Schwieterman says:

    I realize you’re a hypertufa fan, however, have you ever used the Quickcrete patching cement instead. The patching cement already has the fibrous materials in the mixture and then there’s no mixing of other ingredients except water.

    1. Yes, I’ve heard of it and it seems like a good alternative to use to make a planter, depending on what you want to use. Thanks.

  3. Melvin Tufteskog says:

    Hi Kim, I haven’t tried making any Hypertufa planters yet, but have been finding some
    items to use for molds. My question is: is there any problem putting small clean marbles
    or rocks in the sides to change the looks of the outside of the pot? I wouldn’t use alot of
    them. Would adding these items weeken the Hypertufa pot? Keep up the good work.


    1. We have had a lot of people on the Facebook Page tell about using marbles, shells, mosaics, stones, etc on the outer surface of the hypertufa planters. The photos show really unique looks. I say try it on a small project and see what happens. I think you won’t have any problems.

  4. HI Kim good morning. I live in Cape Town South Africa and have made a few drapped hypertufas and am now going to make a pot. Love your ideas and want to start a small business. please give me an idea of how much approximately i can charge in South African rands for a drapped planter using a bath towel size planter. I want to attract customers not chase them away. Pls give me an idea of price.
    Thanks and regards.

    1. Hi Kevin, Thanks for reading/watching my blogs. I am glad that you are making those pots and wish you well in your sales. I don’t sell them myself here in the USA, so I don’t have any price for you. In Cape Town, they may sell close to what they’d sell in the USA. Others have commented on the Facebook Group that they’ve sold for $50 for larger items. The regular style (not draped) pot would be higher. I have seen large ones for $300 planted. So whatever the market will bear. You might start with a few at $50 and if they all sell out immediately, you know you could raise the price for later weekends. Market as a “Grand Opening Discounts” this week only, etc. Hope that helps.

    1. Oh, your items are so creative. I love them. Check out her witches and ghouls if you love to get creative for Halloween…or anytime.

  5. Wonderful Article on Custom Planter Boxes and I really appreciate it for sharing this Article is very informative and helpful Thanks 🙂

  6. Have you ever tried making a pot by stacking on the outside of a mold, then draping it with the hypertufa immersed cloth? I am thinking the stacked part would have a thicker wall where the soil will be.

    1. I have not made the draped hypertufa in a double layer like that, if I am understanding correctly. I made the regular hypertufa inside a mold and then the draped ones from the outside.

  7. Hi Kim, My son recently passed away & I have totes of his clothing. I was wondering if I could do the same thing with one of his shirts or jackets? Turn them into concrete planters as memory gifts……as my son was a professional concrete finisher. Thank You, Annette

    1. I am sorry for your loss. I am sure you could use some of his clothes and make cement-coated coverings for them so that you could always have something to remember. Try it on something small first and if that works well, do another. It would be a great tribute.

  8. can this work with cement only without mixing anything else?

    1. Kim Smith says:

      Sure, but as I mentioned, I work in hypertufa so I add the other ingredients for the texture I want.

  9. Hi!
    I was wondering how you cleaned up the excess slurry mix after you had finished with your planters? I was planning on attempting this project but I’m unsure of how to dispose of any leftover product, didn’t know if you had a method that works best.
    Also, I’m in Ohio and it’s relatively chilly out as we are heading into Thanksgiving, will the temperature affect the curing process? I don’t have a garage but I have an outdoor room/mudroom/patio type deal that I was planning on doing it in but it’s not a heated room, it’s essentially like a garage (concrete floors and a few windows) it stays about the same temperature as it is outside in there. I didn’t know if this project would be best suited for another time of the year or maybe a different environment?
    Thank you!

    1. Kim Smith says:

      Hi, I have just posted today how I make regular hypertufa in the winter time. And when I made my first batches, it was early March and very cold. In fact, I made those in the garage too, as you can see the mess. Do you have anything to heat with to make it more comfortable? But safe? Perhaps you could make a smaller one and after it is partially dried/dripped, then bring it inside for 24-48 hours with an old shower curtain or plastic tablecloth under it. If it gets really hard, it should be fine to go outside on the porch. After about a week, mine were snowed on outside, no problem. ( I am in Ohio too.)

  10. Also live in S Africa, so hello Kim, Have been experimenting with hypertufa pots, without much success, some came out beautiful after two applications, only problem, when I was reapplying the cement slurry the pots became soft again, and do not retain water. Going to try ppc cement now, don’t think the cement I am using is strong enough. HELP HOW DO I MAKE A HYPERTUFA POT using your recipe that is waterproof. Would love to plant direct in the pots. Also would like to make a small business out of it. Urgent reply needed.

    1. Kim Smith says:

      Hi Dolores, I am not sure what could be wrong since you say it is the same slurry and getting different results. Is it the same fabric? I am not sure. The only thing I can think is making a stronger solution by adding more Portland cement, whether you use the OPC or the PPC. I have never used the PPC. Sorry I can’t help more than that.

    2. Lynette Liebenberg says:

      Hi, I am from Zimbabwe, and I too have been trying this out. Love the idea. I have no idea what perlite is or were to get it. And no one I speak to knows. Thought maybe using borax instead??? Anyway, my moulds wont set either. I am baffled. Help!

  11. I am so excited to try making these but am having a hard time finding the vermiculite. What is it?

    1. Kim Smith says:

      If you can’t find vermiculite, you can always use perlite. These would be found in Lowe’s or Home Depot in the garden section which has small bags of potting soil and orchid soil, maybe small bags of rocks etc to decorate terrariums. Otherwise, a garden supply store would have it. They would be more likely to know what you are asking for than the clerk in Lowe’s.

      1. So vermiculite is something you would normally use in the garden? It is more of a soil product than a cement product?

        1. Kim Smith says:

          Yes, it is a soil additive.

        2. I don’t know how perlite is made, but vermiculite is mica that has been “exploded” by heat. It is lightweight and helps with drainage.

  12. Martie de Jager says:

    I live in South Africa Western Cape George. I tried your draped hypertufa and are so thrilled. I used a towel and hessian and came out beautiful. They are quite big. I love them I am still experimenting as The amount of water used is still an uncertainty. Our measurements is different from yours. Thanks for sharing it with us

    1. So glad to hear from you and that the pots have turned out well. I just posted about hanging them. I hope you will try that too.

      1. I’m still playing with your recipe for the draped hypertufa. I used baby receiving flannel blankets since they are light weight yet has pores to take the mix. My first ones didn’t seem stiff enough. I tried to add more slurry to the inside bottom. I’ll see how that does. Today I sewed wire into the corners of the blankets so I could bend the tips outward to dry rather than having them point straight up when finished and dry. I think it will look more like a flower petal this way.

        1. Kim Smith says:

          Sounds like you are doing well. And the wire idea should give you some great results. They will be pretty as flower petals.

          1. Nancy Prescott Arizona says:

            It seems that I’m not using enough cement in the mix as they aren’t getting hard. Will try it again but the wire idea will look great if the rest gets hard enough. Your video made it look easier than I felt it was for me anyway. Maybe the more I do it it will get easier.

            1. Kim Smith says:

              Sorry it has been so hard for you. If you lived next door I would be right over to help.

            2. Mine are not getting hard and I followed the directions.

              1. Kim Smith says:

                The only thing I might suggest is more Portland cement to your mix?

            3. Anonymous says:

              Thankyou for your information, i am looking forward to trying it

    2. Thankyou. Live in Oudtshoorn . Can I contact you ? Thankyou. Louise

  13. Martie de Jager says:

    How much is a 2 qt pitcher. I am in South Africqa and do not know that measurements. Thans Martie

    1. Hi Martie, Do you measure in liters? If you do, it appears that 2 quarts equals 1.89271 liters which is very close. So if you are using a liter pitcher, for instance, just use the liter measure whenever the recipe says “quart” and you should be good. It is the ratio of the ingredients which matters. I hope this helps. Make some great ones.

    2. Anonymous says:

      There are numerous websites that will give the conversion from quarts.

  14. Hello,
    I have seen a chair draped in concrete fabric, Do you think I could use your recipe, and would it be strong enough to sit of with cracking?
    Thank you

    1. I have never made a chair with this, so you could try it. I would make the mix with maybe twice the amount of Portland cement to add strength. Start with a small one?

      1. Thank you for your help. The chair will remain as the support for the fabric to drape over.

  15. Thank you, thank you so much!
    I have watched your YouTube videos and have make it six draped Hypertufa containers. Every time I learn something new.
    First one was made from tablecloth LOL, oh yes was very heavy and hard to handle, I wont to surprise my husband and didn’t ask for help. Second one I made it from two old towel and use it two five gallon paint buckets for my tower. That one turn very nice and tall. Looks stunning but is too small for showpiece. Like I can plant it only one tropical hibiscus and no room for fillers. Last one is still curing I use 32 gallon trash can for my tower and thing that one would be the best for my needs.

    1. Wow, Maria, sounds like you are a bundle of energy and enthusiasm. I’ll bet those tufas are really nice. Great idea to use the 5 gallon buckets so I will have to try that too. So glad that you like making them.

      1. ¿Can I do a hole in the bottom of the planter for drainage? What a beautiful idea! Thanks for learn us! Silvia, from Salta. Argentina

        1. Yes, you can put a hole in the bottom. It can be drilled if you want. Works easily.

  16. Hi, I was wondering it it would work with lace also? And what would you recommend to use material wise if done and placed in a pond?

    1. I think it will work with lace, and that is one of my next projects. As far as putting these containers in a pond, would you have fish in it or not? I don’t know if they’d be suitable if there are fish in the pond.

    2. Madeleine says:

      I would talk with your local extension agent about putting fresh concrete in a pond with fish. I think it would be advisable to weather the piece for a while before you add that much alkaline to your pond.

  17. Just wondering what the Peat is for that you have to add??

    1. It is peat moss, a soil additive. For the draped form, you don’t have to add it unless you desire the textured look. If you use it, be sure to sift it and remove the large sticks and lumps. Thanks for reading, Carla.

  18. Hi, I’m going to give this draping a try. My next issue is maki g hypertufa heads. I’m wondering if you have any ideas to making them. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

    1. Glad you are giving them a try. As for the heads, I am struggling to figure that out too. I got a wig form (styrofoam head) and thought I could make a cast of it. But so far not working. Just coated it with cement, but doesn’t look really very good. Still trying.

      1. Madeleine says:

        Use your Styrofoam head to make a plaster of paris mold. You will need to make the mold in 2 pieces and then you can make as many hypertufa heads as you want.

        1. I do plan to try that. Hope I can get it to work.

      2. I think the heads could be made using old plastic doll heads….cut off at neck and pour mixture into it…once dried cut plastic head away, kinda like the spheres made from kids rubber balls , cut a hole in them and fill , once dried cut away the ball

        1. I would love to try that. I will need to start looking for some old doll heads at garage sales.

      3. Anonymous says:

        Hi, u can buy glass heads made in Spain. they may work for draping.

  19. I love this idea and the look of the draping! A friend sent this link to me since I usually do wet carving pieces, planters, & borders. I plan to plant a canna bulb with a wave petunia. I also found Rustoleum had came out with some awesome spray stains made for concrete that colors can be layered. I think I was in the paint section for hours reading all of it! I was worse than a kid in a candy store!
    But I may be able to answer a couple of the questions/problems a few have had that I have learned from reading or the expensive trial & error “hard way”.
    Curing (drying): the bag or just covering with plastic will hold the moisture in. Concrete needs water or moisture to harden. If you can’t cover it you will need to constantly mist it to keep it from drying out for a few days. Or spray it with a curing agent to speed up the cure and omit constant misting. I’ve never tried the hypertufa mix yet, but if it’s like a mortar it can take up to 2weeks for a full cure. To harden concrete I’ve put pots in a tub of water for a couple days to make it stronger. If it is cool/cold ououtside, use hot/warm water to speed up the cure or cover the plastic with a blanket to keep the heat of the chemical reaction maintained
    Freeze thaw areas will require drainage holes. Cracking happens when excessive moisture trapped in the pot puts pressure on the walls as it freezes. U can add an air entrant or a small squirt of dish soap in the water so the air bubbles will help with contraction/expansion. Otherwise the fabric itself will help hold it together.
    If it’s like a fountain or holding water put a plastic coke bottle with some sand added for a little weight bobbing, so as it freezes it will push the bottle out of water vs blowing out the side walls and leaving a dangerous ice rink around it.
    Also your form if you don’t want to wrap with plastic, spray it with oil to keep it from sticking. I use my old oil from my frydaddy. Hope some of my disasters can help your readers out! I’ll post pics after my canna wakes up!

    1. Those look like some really good ideas. Thanks for taking the time to put it out there.

      1. bon 2015 il y a d’autre idées a faire plus simple dans le même conteste et pour reproduire en séries mais 2015 certainement plus d’actualité ce blog !! quoique je n’ai pas lu non plus les commentaires, il y aurait pu peut y avoir cette idée la aussi !!

  20. Hi Kim!
    I made a couple of draped planters so far and have a couple of questions:
    -If I wish to strengthen a planter, can the slurry be reapplied after the first curing process?
    -Once applied, I would think it needs to be placed in a plastic bag for another 5 days or so, is that correct?
    -Can you give more info about using vinegar … what does it do? what ratio to mix it?
    -What do you use to paint/stain your planters? I try to stay away from spray paints.
    I really enjoyed your videos/site and thank you for all your help!

    1. Thanks for your comments. I appreciate your visit. I strengthen the draped planters with one or even two recoats of the slurry if I feel it needs it, the stronger the better. I put mine in a plastic bag to cure for a few days to be sure it is nice and dry/hard. These planters may tend to have an alkalinity to them due to being made from Portland, but I just mix 2 tbsp of vinegar in about a pint of water and mist them inside a few times, rinsing between with the hose. For painting them, I think an outdoor wood stain or outdoor deck stain works best. Just my opinion, but I like the way a transparent stain lets the “grain” show through. I don’t care for the solid cover of a cement stain. Hope this helps.

      1. Anonymous says:

        All the help I needed, thank you!

      2. Sorry Kim, one more question … do you use water or oil based stains?

        1. No problem, I use the water based stains because it is so much easier to clean up.

  21. chris rinck says:

    Hello Kim,
    I am 28 and grew up with my grandma. She has tons of plants and up until last year, a large garden. She is 77 now and decided it to create a raised garden and it’s fantastic. Because of her, I have many plants in my home and some of my plants are getting huge. This idea is wonderful and I cannot wait to try it this weekend! I have a Dragon Plant that is as tall as I am, 5’11! I will let you know how it turns out. Thank you for posting this!!!

    1. Thanks for your visit, Chris. Sounds like you and your Grandma have a green thumb.

  22. theresa heidel says:

    I have a problem having the cement adhere to the material. what do you suggest.

    1. Do you mean the dipping of the first cloth? Maybe your slurry is not wet enough? Add a little more water. And dampen the cloth too so that the slurry will cling. Hopefully that will work for you.

  23. Wendy Foot says:

    Hi. I love this and am gonna try it asap. Had a thought though…what about if you could cut holes or small lengths in the side before soaking it in the cement or when it is half dry, and put coloured glass or plastic in the cut out bits, then fit it with a light fitting or candles… you could use it as lighting for the garden? Maybe even paint it? I dunno… just thinking out loud! Lol! Might try it! Thank you for sharing! Xx

    1. Hi Wendy. Thanks for your visit. And I agree with that idea. I have seen some sites which make cutouts on the sides for candles, cascading plants. The sky is the limit to our imagination.

    1. I sure hope it is coming soon. It is supposed to be close to 50° today and I am so excited.

    2. Johan Botes says:

      I tried my very first planter, but during the drying process and after been dry I notice that my planter cracked, what can i do to improve and stop the cracking, must I wet it with water, or must it dry in a garage wher it can not be wet. plse help me, cause i want to start it as a business in south africa, Question, did any body else except me, quiered from South Africa.

      1. Thanks, Johan, for visiting and commenting. I am not sure why it would have cracked. I can only suggest. Are you sure you wrapped it up inside plastic to cure? It is wet and damp at first and it sort of steams up inside the plastic bag (tied up the opening). It dries in the shade, not the heat of the sun. After a day or two and you remove it from the plastic or mold, then re-wrap the same way, sealed in a bag in the shade for about a week. Some how the steam-ish drying process cures it. When you bring it back out, wet it and spray it really well, several times a day to rinse the alkaline out of it. Is that how you have done it? I don’t specifically know of any inquiry from South Africa, but I know I have had some readers on FB, so they probably come here too. I wish you good luck and hope you can make a go of a business. Any help I can offer, I will be glad to troubleshoot for you.

        1. Lamees Omardien says:

          I’m from South Africa. I am interested and hope to start this as a hobby and business too. Thanks and good luck !

          1. Sounds like a great idea. Good luck!

      2. Lamees Omardien says:

        Is Portland cement available in South Africa.?

        1. Sorry, I am not sure of its availablility there.

        2. I live in S A and am also very keen to try and make these pots. I am following Tanya on the Gardener, there is a video of her making these pots, she also has a question and answer column. WILL GIVE YOU MORE INFO IF YOU NEED

  24. Wondering if you could use hydraulic cement, it dries in 5 to 10 minutes. Not as a main ingredient but as a brush on after the “bath”.

    1. I don’t see any reason why it would not work. You may have a new technique for the planters. Let us know how it works out! Great thinking!

  25. Hi Kim

    Love the pots. Can’t wait to try these out. Will look fantastic in my garden.

    1. You will love them. It’s messy but fun. Like making mud pies when you’re a kid!

    2. can’t wait to try this, always looking for something different

  26. Please put me on your follow list!

  27. I have been making these forms for years. I just want to tell you what I use to drape the fabric on to dry. When I had some trees taken down I left the trunks 3 to 4′ high. On some I sit a hypertufa leaf birdbath and some I use for draping the fabrics.

    1. Hellio, Ms Match. Thanks for commenting. That is a brilliant idea about the tree stumps. I remember when I made mine I thought “Wish I had an old stump to use..” I will keep that in mind when I have to take down some trees behind us. If they don’t blow over first and not leave me a stump!

  28. It seems to me (as my husband announced) that it would crack and crumble, however I guess that if you use enough “gravy” and coat it well, that it would not? Is that correct? Thanks so much for such a good idea. I plan to make them for inside and outside and put the appropriate holes in the bottom. Warmest Regards, Jacki

    1. Thanks, Jacki. I have not had any trouble with cracking on mine. As you’ve seen in the videos, some of the pieces just flop and I am not sure why. A fleece blanket cut into appropriate sizes and toweling seem to be the best fabrics to use. If you feel at all unsure, add more of the Portland to the mix.

  29. The purpose of the peat is to give the planter character along with making it lighter than making a cement planter. The perlite also makes the planter lighter in weight.

    1. Agreed! Right on the money, Shirley.

  30. P. J. Gale says:

    can you leave these out in the weather = rain, snow shine

    1. I have left mine outside all year. Made that first one in most of the photos when it was still snowing outside. It was in snow and ice within first few weeks of being made. It was a very hard and sturdy one. I have had a few others that are not that hard and the didn’t stand up to weather. So I think as long as you make it very hard and with extra cement, you will be fine. But I guess it remains to be seen. (My smaller ones have been left out all summer and winter with no problem, and they are out there in the snow and cold now.)
      The regular hypertufa planters are frost hardy for sure!

  31. Good day can you please sent the vidio how to make the pots regads

  32. Liz Thompson says:

    I can’t wait for next spring to make it. I was just wondering if this is sturdy enough to shape it on a lounge chair or something and use it as furniture. That would be really awesome! Thanks for sharing and happy holidays to you and your family! 🙂

    1. I have never tried anything like that. But it would not seem to me that it would be strong enough for a lounge chair. Perhaps a small side table or something, but I wouldn’t feel that it could hold a person’s weight. But you never know!

    2. I recently saw an ad for “cement cloth” that has been created for use in construction but, oh the gardening possibilities.
      It comes on a huge and heavy toll, looks like burlap, and once placed in position, it’s thoroughly wetted down, where it hardens accordingly.
      It’s shown making trenches, walls, etc. it is pliable enough to mold around a chair form and then wetted to look like a concrete chair. Also used to line ponds. I so want a roll of this stuff!!!

      1. I think I saw a short film or maybe read about that. It can be used to make a shelter or storage place? It would be nice if it sold in small sheets for us to use for a planter! If you find a manageable size of it, let us know!

  33. What type of fabric did you use?

    1. I have used small pieces of blankets, those fuzzy kind like a “stadium blanket.” The others have been cotton napkins, I had stacks of them from the Goodwill store. I think the light stadium blanket was the best fabric. Quilted was too heavy to manage for me.

  34. lisa nabors says:

    I would love to see some pictures from people that I have tried this. I am planning to try this tomorrow! I can’t wait!

    1. Yes, do post some of those on the Facebook Page.

  35. OMG, I am loving this Kim. My friend lost her son due to siezure activity and I went to visit her. She had two pots made with an old blanket and 5 gallon buckets for forms. They were absolutely beautiful and she had started painting them. One was a deep reddish rust color and beautiful. I am off work due to knee surgery (scpoe) and am doing great but will be off worl for 4 weeks and I plann to make some pots while off. Thanks a bunch for the post. God Bless and keep up the grat work and post…Becky

    1. Thanks, Becky. And my condolences to your friend. I am glad you like the pots. I have painted a few of mine too. They are fun and easy to do. Wishing you a quick recovery from your surgery.

  36. Oh, I cannot wait to try this! the basic draping technique is what I’ve been doing in pottery. Drape a rolled oval over a shape and arrange the drapes to get a fluid shape. Then make texture by pressing in lavender or shells or wheat lots of ideas to do big now

    1. Thanks Lindy. That sounds really nice for pottery. Wishing you well.

    2. did Lindy mean she made some containets with pottery clay?

      1. That’s what it seems from her remarks.

  37. What is peat? like peat moss? Sorry I’m not into plants, even a cactus dies on me. I want to make these for my mom. Thank you!!

    1. Yes, it is peat moss. Sold in big compressed bales cheaply. Or you can get a small bag in the aisle where small bags of soil, cactus and orchid soil, etc are sold. Good luck I know your gift to your mom will be a lasting one.

  38. Can you use any fabric like old sheets?

    1. You can use old sheets. I would start with a smaller piece, such as the size of a napkin. Then go bigger when you get the hang of it. I have not tried anything larger than a laundry basket. If it is a thinner sheet, double up the swatch.

  39. I am getting very frustrated with this lol!!! I have followed directions to the tee…I started out with just a think cotton material…it didn’t work so I tried a thick towel it didn’t work either. I just tried a burlap material and it is closer. I set them in the sun for 2 days. Then set them in our shed still on the forms for 2 days. I removed them from the forms and I feel they are still too flexible or pliable!!! I was making them for a friend of mines bday ( she has been fighting cancer and is now in remition). Her bday is today her parties at 6 this evening and I don’t know what else I can do to make them more firm QUICKLY!!! please help. I was going to spray paint them and then spray a clear lacquer on them…thinking that would make them sturdier.

    1. Kim Smith says:

      So sorry about your friend, Melissa. Maybe they are too big to support the weight? Try some a little smaller and maybe with a stronger cement mix. Just up the cement by a cup or quart depending on the amount you are mixing. Sorry you have had problems. If you saw the 3rd video, some of mine didn’t work and I don’t know why. Try a stronger mix, and try coating with a 2nd brushed on layer. I dry mine in shade inside a bag, like a do my hypertufa troughs. I think sun dries out too quickly.

      1. Anonymous says:

        How many days do u keep them in the shade and then put them in the bags? I’ve also tried small ones and haven’t had luck with them either. I live in a very high humidity area…do u think the humidity has anything to do with it? I have not seen any videos. I’ve just been going by your recipe and what you have written. Where are the videos located? I absolutely LOVE this ideal and how they look. I am determined to get this right!!! My dad did cement work for a living…apparently I didn’t pick up that gene Lol I have been sitting them in the sun for several hrs then putting them in my shed with a fan running in the shed. My husband is not happy with me for the mess I’ve been making in the shed Lol I’ve got failed planters sitting everywhere. Can I reuse the cloth that failed?? I’m running out of cloth 🙁 What type of cloth has worked best for you? I ended up making my friend a silk floral arrangement in a vase that I made last minute…matter of fact I arranged the flowers on my way to Kentucky…it worked out fine, she loved it. I showed her the pics of my failed planters and how they are supposed to look and she loves them. So I will definitely give her one when I conquer this!!! Also, SHE HAD NEVER BEEN ON PINTEREST!!! So I hooked her up! I told her husband that I was sorry, because I’m going to be the cause of her new addiction!!! Thank you all for ur help!

        1. Kim Smith says:

          Sorry you are having so much trouble. When I first make the vase/planter, I put a bag like a trash bag over it so that it dries slowly. Maybe it is the slow drying that you are missing. I don’t put them in the sun to dry, but bagged in a moist environment to “cure” which is what this cement mixture needs to do. Check that you are using just Portland Cement, not Concrete Mix or Quickset…it needs to be the Portland cement, it will look like gray baby powder, no sandy/gravelly mix. For my fabric, I have used small dinner napkins from the Goodwill store. The hemmed edge makes them nice, I think. Try the videos for extra help. On my website, they are on the tab marked Videos and Tutorials. Check out Making a Draped Hypertufa Planter_The Hypertufa Gardener

    2. I believe your problem may be with your conception that the cement has to dry. Cement does not dry but cures in that a chemical reaction takes place that hardens it sort of like epoxy when the 2-parts are mixed. Covering it (or sealing it in side a garbage bag it the right thing to do to help it cure.

      1. Kim Smith says:

        I may not have been clear about curing in a bag, but when we use the term dry sometimes we are meaning cure. So don’t worry, Melissa.

      2. Are the planters still flexible after they cure? Can I plant directly into the planter or do I need to put a container inside?

        1. Kim Smith says:

          Most of mine have gotten very hard, but they make a good planter, or a vessel to put another pot into. Drilling holes is not a problem. I have used them both ways. I wouldn’t really say flexible.

  40. Christine says:

    Yes since i first saw on pinterest these fabric cloth pots, I am making all kinds of them. They are displayed at my front door. Easy to make but messy. I do not put dirt in them but elevate with pails n put a potted planter in them. My next batch will be experimenting with spray paint. Love them. So unique. Talk of the town here.

    1. Kim Smith says:

      So glad you found my site. These draped pots are really different, and I do think they make great “pot holders.” I have stained/painted some to give them a different look, brownish to resemble tree bark, one a bright lavender to go with white petunias, and a dramatic black one with deep purple wave petunia. Really eye-catching. Thanks so much for reading and commenting. I think a door display would be awesome!

  41. Christine says:

    woo! thankyou! just done a clean out and found several old quilts – now I know what I will use them for.

    1. Kim Smith says:

      Thanks for reading, and be sure to start with something small until you get a feel for it. Don’t get too large, since in my experience, it doesn’t work. Let me know if you figure out otherwise.

  42. Hello! I’m at work surfing around your blog from my new iphone!
    Just wanted to say I love reading through your blog and look forward to
    all your posts! Keep up the great work!

    1. Kim Smith says:

      Thank you for reading and I will keep on!

  43. Tammysue990 says:

    Can you do this with just plain old quick crete. Without the peat or hyper tufa stuff.?

    1. You can make concrete pots sure. But this is just a different medium to make a lighter pot, not as heavy, and I think more visually appealing.

  44. This is probably a silly question, but when you say “peat”..Is that peat moss? If not what is it???

    1. Yes, it is peat moss. I understand there are differing views on it being a non-sustainable resource, but then there are opposing views also. I am trying to experiment with different replacements such as coir and even salt?

      1. Anonymous says:

        I am getting very frustrated with this lol!!! I have followed directions to the tee…I started out with just a think cotton material…it didn’t work so I tried a thick towel it didn’t work either. I just tried a burlap material and it is closer. I set them in the sun for 2 days. Then set them in our shed still on the forms for 2 days. I removed them from the forms and I feel they are still too flexible or pliable!!! I was making them for a friend of mines bday ( she has been fighting cancer and is now in remition). Her bday is today her parties at 6 this evening and I don’t know what else I can do to make them more firm QUICKLY!!! please help. I was going to spray paint them and then spray a clear lacquer on them…thinking that would make them sturdier.

        1. Kim Smith says:

          So sorry about your friend, Melissa. Maybe they are too big to support the weight? Try some a little smaller and maybe with a stronger cement mix. Just up the cement by a cup or quart depending on the amount you are mixing. Sorry you have had problems. If you saw the 3rd video, some of mine didn’t work and I don’t know why. Try a stronger mix, and try coating with a 2nd brushed on layer. I dry mine in shade inside a bag, like a do my hypertufa troughs. I think sun dries out too quickly.

      2. Salt may be a bad idea. I got this from Answers.com from a Chemistry Supervisor who answered someone else’s question regarding the use of salt.

        ” Chemistry Supervisor Ten Tibias

        Generally, salt is harmful to concrete. It will seriously corrode any reinforcing steel. The salt crystals, when the concrete is dry, will weaken the concrete. The setting of cement is a complex set of chemicals, calcium sulphates and silicates mainly. The presence of salt may interfere with these crystals forming, which may take years.”

        1. Kim Smith says:

          As I previously had mentioned, I plan to experiment with rock salt crystals added to the hypertufa mixture. It may or may not work , but it will be an experiment. I totally agree that salt is bad on concrete, but hypertufa is not concrete. It has Portland cement in its ingredients, but the end result isn’t concrete. So I agree with Ten Tibias, that salt can harm concrete ( you should have seen my driveway before we had it replaced!), and yes it can react with steel reinforcement in the concrete. But hypertufa is a different mixture, so I may experiment with rock salt to get a pocked-mark effect in my surface. We shall see.

          1. Hi Kim. Amazing. want to know if you put vaseline on your chair or object you hanging the cloth on wont it make it easier to remove.

            1. Bonny, I do have it lined with plastic and am putting the fabric-soaked cloth over the plastic. It peels off the plastic really well. You can spray with a non-stick spray or rub oil or vaseline too. But my plastic pulled away easily without it.



    1. Thanks Claire. I really like doing it and hope you do too! Really you can try anything with this!

  46. How exciting, what a new idea, I would like to talk to you, as I live in Melbourne. Anyway, I am e-mailing all my friends from Ca. to Conn. and all in between.

      • I would love to have them all come to visit the site and offer some opinions. Thanks for commenting.
  47. Stella Blackburn says:

    Dear Sir/Madams

    Love the drape hypertufa pots. I need to know when you have made one can you put potting soil in and do the leak. Want to have them inside, worried about water leaking from them.

    Thanks and regards and who ever thought of this idea is very artistic and lovely.

    Thanks and regards


    1. I have drilled holes in mine and plan to keep them outside. But if I brought one in, I would use a saucer of some type like I would with my hypertufa containers. It would NOT be kind to your furniture or countertops, I don’t imagine. But I am always cautious about any container on my tables.

  48. Bev Smith says:

    I adore what you have done and I can’t wait to try my own. A couple of questions: Do you think a lightweight fabric like a chiffon would work or must it be heavier? Also, how do these fare in the winter? I am guessing you should bring them in? Thanks for sharing with us!

    1. Thanks, Bev, for visiting and commenting. I have only made these since early spring here in Ohio, but my first ones were outside in low temps and snow and ice. No problem or damage at all. ( It was not planted at the time.) I am drilling holes in them and plan to leave them outside here in zone 5-6. But some will be inside because they look so good with a houseplant inside, using the draped vase as a receptacle for an insert pot. As for the fabric, I think that any fabric that absorbs well is best, such as cotton or towel/washcloth fabric etc. But you may get a really nice delicate vase from chiffon. I would try a scrap 12×12 on something small and see how it behaves. Use just a dash of the well-sifted peat if at all. You may want to leave that out of a delicate fabric project. Hope that helps.

    2. I would not leave these out exposed to ice and freezing temps. I have a small concrete fountain that came with instructions not to or if it cannot be brought in out of the weather then to put inside it a towel to absorb moisture then to cover it securely with waterproof plastic. Moisture gets in the little nooks and crannies then expands when it freezes. Enough seasons of this and it will start to crumble. Hypertufa has more nooks and crannies than cement.

      1. Kim Smith says:

        I have always left mine out all winter. Here in Ohio, it gets very cold and I have not had a problem at all. Quite a few of mine are more than 7 years old, and are weathered and beautiful with moss and lichens. But the freeze has not broken or cracked them. I do have several concrete urns that crumbled and broke down after a few winters. They are long ago crumbled in the woods, basically now serving as a rock filler on the creek bed. I think the porous nature of hypertufa helps in the freeze/thaw cycle. The only time I ever had one break was when I dropped it!

  49. murad i.sameja says:

    Post more information pls.

    1. I will be posting more as I go! Thanks for reading and commenting.

  50. I love this idea!!!!! But you asked about ideas about what to plant in it. My immediate thought was to plant an semi-elaborate fairy or hobbit scene. I’m keeping an eye out for someone to drop and break a big clay pot so I could try the same thing, depending on the way it breaks. But now, after reading about this, I think I might try it, only try to drape it to dry so I leave an on purpose crooked “crack” down part of the side to put a mini pathway or road with some tiny flower or sedum bordering it. There are so many cute, knickknacks you can find at thrift stores to make parts of a little village. Goodness, your imagination would only be hindered by what you couldn’t find or make for something like this. For me, it might be even more fun to make it into something like diorama of mini wildlife critters. Such fun to be had!!!!

    1. Susan, thanks for stopping by to read my blog. You can just about anything, but I hadn’t even thought about the fairy or hobbit scene. And come to think of it, the hobbit them really seems suited to that shape. I guess I will try and write some more on this because it seems to interest everyone so much. I love the shape the draping makes, and the items are light too!

  51. Fran Atkinson says:

    Such a neat idea. Maybe we could cut holes where the bottom will be so the wet concrete mix will not stick thus you will have your drain holes.

    1. Fran, thanks for coming by to read my blog. I am used to drilling “after the fact.” And this one was just as easy as hypertufa. Use a masonry drill bit and it goes through easily. You will even see a few fiber strands around the hole, which I see as extra strength.

  52. Carol Menard says:

    Awesome eill be making these

    1. You will love them. I just can’t quit, and I have them all over as it is. But having a good time!

      1. Barbara Gamache says:

        Love the white colored pots in the picture with the door and steps–one is a tall pot one is shorter square and then 2 smaller rounds!! Would love to know what you cloth you used for the biggest pot??? love the size and shape–and would love to duplicate as closely as possible!!

        1. Thanks, I have used a fleece blanket material for the larger pots, and used old large linen napkins for the smaller ones. The forms I used were just different sized paint cans and cardboard cartons. I had to stack cans and boxes high enough to get the draped effect, though. Hope that helps.

  53. I think that turned out pretty fantastic. But — are you going to be able to make drainage holes in that? Or will you instead use it as a big cachepot — i.e., put another pot inside it? Otherwise, how will whatever you plant in it get drained after being watered? I’m really curious to see how you end up using it.

    1. I am going to try and drill a hole into the bottom with a drill. I know it will meet the blanket inside (Eeekk!) But I am hopping it will work. My Hub says it will work. I think it probably will since the blanket will be so hard? Guess we will see. And I will update! I like pot that can be rained in! Don’t want it just up under the deck roof!

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